Learning About Lace
In this section, you will find very brief tutorials based on visitors' questions sent to me and my personal answers back to them. It will be an interactive, on-going project, building over time.
To submit your questions about lace, click HERE for the contact form.
To submit your questions about lace, click HERE for the contact form.
1.) How do hand-knotted filet lace and handmade Buratto lace differ?
Buratto lace is hand-embroidered lace made on buratto cloth. Buratto cloth is an even-weave cloth with single warp threads and double twisted weft threads. This cloth has square, loose, open mesh on which lacemakers embroider their designs in running stitch. Handmade Buratto is classified as an embroidered lace. Click on image to enlarge |
2.) What is the difference between drawn-thread lace and pulled-thread lace?
Drawn-thread lace is made from woven linen or cotton cloth. In drawn-thread lace, threads are actually removed from the woven cloth by the lacemaker to form patterns of open spaces. Then embroidery is done around and through the spaces where the threads have been removed. Drawn work is classified as embroidered lace. Click on images to enlarge |
3.) I don't find my lace anywhere on your pages. May I send you some photographs?
If you do not find lace on my website that compares to your own, I invite you to send two or three photos to me. Often I know. Sometimes I don’t. I am always willing to help if I can. The photos must be very close up and very focused. Click on the “Contact The Rookery” button and request to send photos. I will tell you where to send them. Please don’t send photos of crochet. There are thousands of examples on ebay.com or etsy.com for comparing the asking prices of crochet lace.
If you do not find lace on my website that compares to your own, I invite you to send two or three photos to me. Often I know. Sometimes I don’t. I am always willing to help if I can. The photos must be very close up and very focused. Click on the “Contact The Rookery” button and request to send photos. I will tell you where to send them. Please don’t send photos of crochet. There are thousands of examples on ebay.com or etsy.com for comparing the asking prices of crochet lace.
4.) Can you tell me how much my lace is worth?
The value of your lace depends on age, type, rarity and condition. It also depends on the market where you plan to sell it. I cannot put a value on your lace, but I can usually say which laces are common and which are unusual or rare. The first step is to identify your lace so you can begin researching current prices on various online venues and reference books.
The value of your lace depends on age, type, rarity and condition. It also depends on the market where you plan to sell it. I cannot put a value on your lace, but I can usually say which laces are common and which are unusual or rare. The first step is to identify your lace so you can begin researching current prices on various online venues and reference books.
5.) How should I store my lace?
Very valuable, fragile antique lace (17th - 18th century) is safest when stored flat, uncleaned, unstarched, and wrapped in archival tissue. But, to put things into perspective, nearly all of the laces you see on my website are laces I personally have bought and sold in the US, and, though they are beautiful, they are all 19th and 20th century laces and not rare. I, personally, handwash all my laces before storing or selling them, unless they are already falling apart and can’t be cleaned. I block most laces while they are drying, rather than ironing. Some laces are lightly ironed. I fold them loosely and store them in bins, unwrapped.
Very valuable, fragile antique lace (17th - 18th century) is safest when stored flat, uncleaned, unstarched, and wrapped in archival tissue. But, to put things into perspective, nearly all of the laces you see on my website are laces I personally have bought and sold in the US, and, though they are beautiful, they are all 19th and 20th century laces and not rare. I, personally, handwash all my laces before storing or selling them, unless they are already falling apart and can’t be cleaned. I block most laces while they are drying, rather than ironing. Some laces are lightly ironed. I fold them loosely and store them in bins, unwrapped.
6.) What is the best way to clean my old linens and old lace?
PLEASE NOTE: Some lace is very very delicate, especially if it is quite old or if it has been used or stored for a long time in sunlight and dust. It must be laundered with the greatest of care or left as is. There are many, many different kinds of antique and vintage lace and linens. If you have pieces that you believe to be very valuable - especially those with delicate, fragile lace, always consult an expert. Do not rely on my general information! Very old, very valuable lace, especially that in distressed condition, can be easily destroyed, and is best left alone or taken to conservators.
Here is a website that I found to be quite rational and helpful for cleaning more common lace in general:
http://reallyhandmade.com/how-to-clean-antique-lace-and-other-delicate-fibers/
Here are my own personal suggestions for cleaning linens and / or lace.
With a little diligence, I usually get my antique linens and laces stain free and sparkling here at my home. I am not a professional launderer and I am very cautious. It is not difficult, and requires mostly 1.) water, 2.) time, and 3.) patience. I use an enameled canning pot.
Here is what works for me with average sturdy lace, linen tablecloths, and bed linens.
In a large bowl, tub, pot or sink make a mixture of cold water and an oxygen-based laundry product. Don’t use bleach, lemon, vinegar or any acidic cleaner. Don’t mix oxygen-based products with any other cleaning product like clorox!
Put the linen or lace in to soak. The longer it soaks, the whiter it becomes – be patient. I often leave very stained linens soaking for six days. But check every day, as sometimes it doesn't take so long. The handful of stains that are stubborn, I treat with Spray and Wash and soak a day longer.
Rinse very well – at least three different rinses, until all traces of cleaner are gone. Squeeze the water out - no wringing or twisting. Roll it in a large towel to get more of the water out. Plain, unadorned linen or cotton can go into the dryer. If it has delicate lace inserts or edging, don't chance it! Line dry, or drape it over the ironing board to dry.
I personally prefer no starch, as I like my linens to have a billowy, soft, pliable hand. If you prefer a stiffer look and feel - or if you just want to add body to a rather worn, thin, droopy set of napkins, use Niagara spray starch. Easy to use.
Caveat: Though I have been laundering linens and lace for years. I have never been able to entirely remove black ink, colored candle-wax stains, motor grease or rust stains. I steer clear of buying any linens with these stains. But the process outlined above nearly always removes pasta sauce, tea, red wine, espresso, blood. ( We Italians...ahem.. have rather wild meal times...)
And remember: A few pale yellow stains left over are not necessarily a bad thing! They attest to age and authenticity. What is the point of having antique and vintage linens if they do not show their age and history? A little worn spot, a snagged thread, a bit of missing edge lace, a tea stain or two – it is only a little added charm.
PLEASE NOTE: Some lace is very very delicate, especially if it is quite old or if it has been used or stored for a long time in sunlight and dust. It must be laundered with the greatest of care or left as is. There are many, many different kinds of antique and vintage lace and linens. If you have pieces that you believe to be very valuable - especially those with delicate, fragile lace, always consult an expert. Do not rely on my general information! Very old, very valuable lace, especially that in distressed condition, can be easily destroyed, and is best left alone or taken to conservators.
Here is a website that I found to be quite rational and helpful for cleaning more common lace in general:
http://reallyhandmade.com/how-to-clean-antique-lace-and-other-delicate-fibers/
Here are my own personal suggestions for cleaning linens and / or lace.
With a little diligence, I usually get my antique linens and laces stain free and sparkling here at my home. I am not a professional launderer and I am very cautious. It is not difficult, and requires mostly 1.) water, 2.) time, and 3.) patience. I use an enameled canning pot.
Here is what works for me with average sturdy lace, linen tablecloths, and bed linens.
In a large bowl, tub, pot or sink make a mixture of cold water and an oxygen-based laundry product. Don’t use bleach, lemon, vinegar or any acidic cleaner. Don’t mix oxygen-based products with any other cleaning product like clorox!
Put the linen or lace in to soak. The longer it soaks, the whiter it becomes – be patient. I often leave very stained linens soaking for six days. But check every day, as sometimes it doesn't take so long. The handful of stains that are stubborn, I treat with Spray and Wash and soak a day longer.
Rinse very well – at least three different rinses, until all traces of cleaner are gone. Squeeze the water out - no wringing or twisting. Roll it in a large towel to get more of the water out. Plain, unadorned linen or cotton can go into the dryer. If it has delicate lace inserts or edging, don't chance it! Line dry, or drape it over the ironing board to dry.
I personally prefer no starch, as I like my linens to have a billowy, soft, pliable hand. If you prefer a stiffer look and feel - or if you just want to add body to a rather worn, thin, droopy set of napkins, use Niagara spray starch. Easy to use.
Caveat: Though I have been laundering linens and lace for years. I have never been able to entirely remove black ink, colored candle-wax stains, motor grease or rust stains. I steer clear of buying any linens with these stains. But the process outlined above nearly always removes pasta sauce, tea, red wine, espresso, blood. ( We Italians...ahem.. have rather wild meal times...)
And remember: A few pale yellow stains left over are not necessarily a bad thing! They attest to age and authenticity. What is the point of having antique and vintage linens if they do not show their age and history? A little worn spot, a snagged thread, a bit of missing edge lace, a tea stain or two – it is only a little added charm.
7.) I have just been given a box full of lace collars, gloves, shawls, and cuffs. Is lace worth anything?
Good question! Some lace is worth a lot (antique needle lace from Italy, as one example) and some is worth very little (crocheted doilies, for example.) A good place to start: Try to find your lace on this website so you know what kind of lace you have and then see what people are asking for the same on online sales venues or in shops. Caution: Do not rely on ebay or etsy traders’ to label and describe their listed laces accurately! I believe well over seventy-five percent know nothing about lace and have to resort to making up things, sometimes to comical effect! Below I will list other fine, authoritative lace identification web sites.
In general terms:
Handmade lace sells for more than machine-made lace.
Lace and linens in good, readily useable or displayable condition sell for more than those in poor condition. Lace that is full of tears,holes, and broken threads, are hard to sell, with a few exceptions.
Lace that has been carefully laundered and lightly pressed or blocked, sells for more than lace that is offered “as is” - dusty, stained, musty smelling, right out of a chest after long storage. Lace that is stained with black grease, ink, rust, or candle wax are very hard to sell. Many will not buy it.
Good question! Some lace is worth a lot (antique needle lace from Italy, as one example) and some is worth very little (crocheted doilies, for example.) A good place to start: Try to find your lace on this website so you know what kind of lace you have and then see what people are asking for the same on online sales venues or in shops. Caution: Do not rely on ebay or etsy traders’ to label and describe their listed laces accurately! I believe well over seventy-five percent know nothing about lace and have to resort to making up things, sometimes to comical effect! Below I will list other fine, authoritative lace identification web sites.
In general terms:
Handmade lace sells for more than machine-made lace.
Lace and linens in good, readily useable or displayable condition sell for more than those in poor condition. Lace that is full of tears,holes, and broken threads, are hard to sell, with a few exceptions.
Lace that has been carefully laundered and lightly pressed or blocked, sells for more than lace that is offered “as is” - dusty, stained, musty smelling, right out of a chest after long storage. Lace that is stained with black grease, ink, rust, or candle wax are very hard to sell. Many will not buy it.
8.) Are there other good lace identification websites in addition to The Rook and The Raven?
Oh yes, there are some that are quite nice!
Textile Research Center https://trc-leiden.nl
Lynx Lace http://www.Lynxlace.com
Joachim and Betty Mendes, UK http://www.mendes.co.uk
Some knowledgeable lace dealers for high end laces on eBay are:
twist-in-time
lacemerchant
oldthreads
things*most*delightful
Oh yes, there are some that are quite nice!
Textile Research Center https://trc-leiden.nl
Lynx Lace http://www.Lynxlace.com
Joachim and Betty Mendes, UK http://www.mendes.co.uk
Some knowledgeable lace dealers for high end laces on eBay are:
twist-in-time
lacemerchant
oldthreads
things*most*delightful
9.) What is the difference between tatting and reticella?
I am not a lacemaker, so I cannot say much about the execution of tatting and reticella. But I recognize it when I see it, and so can you! Both seem to be very tight, very precise, single-thread lace-making techniques. Tatting is classed as a knotted lace, made with a small tatting shuttle. Some times it is very simple - just one row of circles, but can also be very complex. One clue is that it always has picots - tiny decorative loops on the edge. Reticella, on the other hand, is classed as a needle-lace, and is made with a sewing needle. It is primarily made with the button-hole stitch. It has no little picots, but often it has solid little nubs or lumps. When you scroll through the reticella entries here, you will see it is usually characterized by straight geometric patterns - nubby straight lines, crossed lines and triangles. A similar kind of needle lace, a slightly more advanced version of reticella, is called punto in aria. It is very like reticella except that it is created differently and features more curved lines, flowery circles and loops. There are several samples of both punto in aria and of reticella in the Needle Lace folder here. This answers your question in a rather incomplete way, but it is a start.
I am not a lacemaker, so I cannot say much about the execution of tatting and reticella. But I recognize it when I see it, and so can you! Both seem to be very tight, very precise, single-thread lace-making techniques. Tatting is classed as a knotted lace, made with a small tatting shuttle. Some times it is very simple - just one row of circles, but can also be very complex. One clue is that it always has picots - tiny decorative loops on the edge. Reticella, on the other hand, is classed as a needle-lace, and is made with a sewing needle. It is primarily made with the button-hole stitch. It has no little picots, but often it has solid little nubs or lumps. When you scroll through the reticella entries here, you will see it is usually characterized by straight geometric patterns - nubby straight lines, crossed lines and triangles. A similar kind of needle lace, a slightly more advanced version of reticella, is called punto in aria. It is very like reticella except that it is created differently and features more curved lines, flowery circles and loops. There are several samples of both punto in aria and of reticella in the Needle Lace folder here. This answers your question in a rather incomplete way, but it is a start.
10.) How long has lace been made by machine? What is the difference between all the machine-made laces?
Big question! I can give a small answer. The first machine-made lace was as early as 1812. You will find a simple history of machine-made lace:
https://www.laceguild.org/craft/index.html
Here you will find an entire free ebook comparing handmade with machine made. It may be far more more information than you want, but it is a fine pictorial resource
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38973/38973-h/38973-h.htm
You will see at The Rook and The Raven, the five most ubiquitous types of machine-made lace:
Pusher - begun c. 1812, in England (New Radford)
Leavers - begun c.1813, in England (Nottingham)
Barmen - begun c.1890, in Germany
Schiffli - begun c.1890, in Switzerland
Quaker - begun c.1894 as Lehigh, in the USA
After a while, one begins to recognize on which machine the laces were made. Study the photos. All five produce different qualities of lace and different patterns of lace. Some is thin, irregular, crude. Some is so fine it is nearly impossible to tell it from handmade. If you are a lace-maker, however, you can follow the trail of the thread and know instantly. Some machines can produce lace that beautifully mimics scores of different handmade lace – especially Schiffli. They are masters of replication
Big question! I can give a small answer. The first machine-made lace was as early as 1812. You will find a simple history of machine-made lace:
https://www.laceguild.org/craft/index.html
Here you will find an entire free ebook comparing handmade with machine made. It may be far more more information than you want, but it is a fine pictorial resource
https://www.gutenberg.org/files/38973/38973-h/38973-h.htm
You will see at The Rook and The Raven, the five most ubiquitous types of machine-made lace:
Pusher - begun c. 1812, in England (New Radford)
Leavers - begun c.1813, in England (Nottingham)
Barmen - begun c.1890, in Germany
Schiffli - begun c.1890, in Switzerland
Quaker - begun c.1894 as Lehigh, in the USA
After a while, one begins to recognize on which machine the laces were made. Study the photos. All five produce different qualities of lace and different patterns of lace. Some is thin, irregular, crude. Some is so fine it is nearly impossible to tell it from handmade. If you are a lace-maker, however, you can follow the trail of the thread and know instantly. Some machines can produce lace that beautifully mimics scores of different handmade lace – especially Schiffli. They are masters of replication
11) I am confused! What is the difference between tambour lace, needle run lace and Limerick lace?
Tambour is a type of embroidery stitch done on commercial netting. It is a chain-stitch made with a tiny tambour hook, which reaches through the holes of the netting to draw the working thread through to form designs.
Needle-run is also a type of embroidery stitch done on commercial netting. It is an “in and out” running-stitch made with a sewing needle, going over and under the holes of the netting to form designs.
Limerick lace is a specific kind of embroidered lace made in Ireland. It is made on commercial netting and utilizes both tambour stitches and needle-run stitches. These two types of embroidery stitches are used in laces from many other countries as well. i.e. Limerick lace uses tambour and needle-run stitches, but not all tambour or needle-run work is Limerick.
Tambour is a type of embroidery stitch done on commercial netting. It is a chain-stitch made with a tiny tambour hook, which reaches through the holes of the netting to draw the working thread through to form designs.
Needle-run is also a type of embroidery stitch done on commercial netting. It is an “in and out” running-stitch made with a sewing needle, going over and under the holes of the netting to form designs.
Limerick lace is a specific kind of embroidered lace made in Ireland. It is made on commercial netting and utilizes both tambour stitches and needle-run stitches. These two types of embroidery stitches are used in laces from many other countries as well. i.e. Limerick lace uses tambour and needle-run stitches, but not all tambour or needle-run work is Limerick.
12.) My ancestors traveled extensively around the world and were great collectors of lace. They purchased lace in Belgium, France, England, Italy, and everywhere they went in the 1920s. How can I learn the value of what I think may be very expensive pieces?
Expensive lace is not my area. If you feel you have very important, valuable lace, you might contact a professional lace appraiser - either a private consultant or one at an auction house. You might, for example, contact either of these two women. I do not know them, and have not worked with them, but they certainly seem to have good credentials. See what they have to say?
http://www.dmillerappraisals.com/consult.html
http://www.antique-fashion.com/Antique-Fashion/consultations.htm
Also, there is a lace museum in San Jose CA, and there are other museums in San Francisco, Detroit, and I am sure other cities with large textile departments. Possibly a museum lace curator could help you? I don’t know. Google “Lace Museum”. Perhaps you could email photos?
You could email a few very close-up, clear photos to me to see if I can at least identify them for you. I, personally, am not qualified to appraise fine lace, but identification is a starting point.
Expensive lace is not my area. If you feel you have very important, valuable lace, you might contact a professional lace appraiser - either a private consultant or one at an auction house. You might, for example, contact either of these two women. I do not know them, and have not worked with them, but they certainly seem to have good credentials. See what they have to say?
http://www.dmillerappraisals.com/consult.html
http://www.antique-fashion.com/Antique-Fashion/consultations.htm
Also, there is a lace museum in San Jose CA, and there are other museums in San Francisco, Detroit, and I am sure other cities with large textile departments. Possibly a museum lace curator could help you? I don’t know. Google “Lace Museum”. Perhaps you could email photos?
You could email a few very close-up, clear photos to me to see if I can at least identify them for you. I, personally, am not qualified to appraise fine lace, but identification is a starting point.
13.) You show many examples of Bosa filet lace. What is the difference between Bosa filet and filet made in other countries?
Bosa is a small town in the northwest of Sardinia in Italy. It is known for its distinctive handmade filet lace. The primary difference between Sardinian Bosa filet lace and the filet lace that is common in other countries are the stylized and ritualized motifs of animals, birds, flowers, leaves, griffins, dragons, winged lions, and vines. They are very fanciful and a delight to the eye and the heart. They are quite recognizable.
The stitches used are distinct as well. The Bosa lace-makers utilize the more ubiquitous darning stitch and dove’s eyes, however, in Bosa filet you will find heavier use of the cloth stitch and the double running stitch that outlines the animal, mythical, and botanical motifs.
Historically Bosa filet was embroidered on either loosely-woven Buratto linen or on Modano knotted netting. Today Sardinian Bosa filet is done principally on netting.
Bosa is a small town in the northwest of Sardinia in Italy. It is known for its distinctive handmade filet lace. The primary difference between Sardinian Bosa filet lace and the filet lace that is common in other countries are the stylized and ritualized motifs of animals, birds, flowers, leaves, griffins, dragons, winged lions, and vines. They are very fanciful and a delight to the eye and the heart. They are quite recognizable.
The stitches used are distinct as well. The Bosa lace-makers utilize the more ubiquitous darning stitch and dove’s eyes, however, in Bosa filet you will find heavier use of the cloth stitch and the double running stitch that outlines the animal, mythical, and botanical motifs.
Historically Bosa filet was embroidered on either loosely-woven Buratto linen or on Modano knotted netting. Today Sardinian Bosa filet is done principally on netting.
14.) Can you tell me what kind of lace this is? It is rolled up on a bolt like fabric. What would its value be?
You have machine-made lace yardage for making curtains, most likely made on a Leaver machine. My guess would be any time from the 1950s to 1980s. You can see in this photo that this lace was meant to be cut out to form straight-side, scallop bottomed panels and valances. Edges would be hand-hemmed or trimmed with lace edging. You can find NEW curtain lace, sold from the bolt costing anywhere from $15 a yard to $60 a yard, depending on quality, design, size, etc. You might search “vintage lace curtains” on online auction sites to see what the offering prices are.
Click on the image to enlarge. |
Here is another example of Leaver lace sold on a bolt. This piece has been cut out and trimmed with edge lace to make a chair back cover.
16.) What is this lace, please? I have not seen it before. It is a long narrow shawl or table runner.
“Hairpin” lace
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I don’t know the name exactly. It is somewhat like "hairpin"or “broomstick" lace - home-crafted laces. These loopy, home-made laces were popular around the turn of the last century and a variety of patterns were available. (A similar phenomenon took place in the 1960s when crafting macramé at home became very popular!) Origin is hard to guess, as they were done by homemakers practically everywhere. Usually they are on a much smaller scale, like doilies, but just like crochet, it was limited only by the size of one’s thread or cord or whatever and what was available for tools.
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"Broomstick" lace
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17.) What is the difference between Burano lace and Buratto lace?
Their names are a bit similar, but they are nothing alike - their only commonality is that they are both Italian.
Their names are a bit similar, but they are nothing alike - their only commonality is that they are both Italian.
Buratto is made on a particular loosely woven cloth that has single vertical threads and double twisted horizontal threads. The designs are embroidered or “darned” onto this grid work. Very simple, easy to make lace, but it can be quite lavish in its images. And it is very rare to find it. Click on the image to enlarge. |
18.) I cannot tell if my lace is handmade or if it is machine-made lace. What should I look for?
Click on images to enlarge.
Click on images to enlarge.
You have a gorgeous, very elaborate piece of Schiffli machine-made lace. A Schiffli machine can replicate virtually ANY kind of needle lace, bobbin lace or embroidered lace and do a fantastic job. Some of it is very beautiful, and you need a magnifying glass to look at it closely to tell the difference sometimes. |
Here are a couple of pointers to help you examine lace more closely.
Handmade lace brides, on the other hand, are very regular, neat and even. They look like tight little braids or buttonhole stitch. No twists, no lumps, nothing uneven, no spirals in sight.
There are many other characteristics, but this is a start. The key is to look closely!
19.) Are Point de Venise and Belgian Zele the same? How are they similar or different?
Belgian Zele lace IS Point de Venise lace, but it is made in Belgium, not Italy. It uses the same needlelace making techniques - mostly button hole stitch. (Much in the same way as English Bedfordshire and French Cluny can be made in any country and in many styles using the same techniques.)
As I am not a lace maker, I cannot discuss the technique of how this lace is made in the different countries. I can only respond to the design. I believe the difference is mostly manifested in the design elements or pattern. Here is my opinion - and I may be wrong! This description does not come from my mentor or from any textbook. Just from my intuition and understanding.
Belgian Zele lace IS Point de Venise lace, but it is made in Belgium, not Italy. It uses the same needlelace making techniques - mostly button hole stitch. (Much in the same way as English Bedfordshire and French Cluny can be made in any country and in many styles using the same techniques.)
As I am not a lace maker, I cannot discuss the technique of how this lace is made in the different countries. I can only respond to the design. I believe the difference is mostly manifested in the design elements or pattern. Here is my opinion - and I may be wrong! This description does not come from my mentor or from any textbook. Just from my intuition and understanding.
Chinese Point de Venise is blunt, chunky “patchwork” in design, like toy blocks stuck together haphazardly, with erratic brides, It feels somewhat static, but it is utilizing Point de Venise techniques.
Belgian Zele / Point de Venise is graceful, sinuous, coherent, with consistent and immaculate button hole stitch, and often a hex ground. It is somewhat “rounded” and open in its design. It most often includes “floating” leaf veins except in the work on napkins. (See Belgian Zele photos in the Needlelace folder.)
Italian Point de Venise has beautiful, complex designs, a great variety of fills, flourishes, sometimes with fancy little picots on a hex ground, high / low raised work. The Italians seem to add their soul and personality to their designs. (bottom left corner in the photo below is Cantú)
20.) Can you tell me what this lace is? And is it handmade?
Your lace is a very lavish bit of Victorian Era Battenberg tape lace. Basically it is made out of purchased “tape”. The tapes are laid out on a pattern and pinned in place and then all kinds of little handmade connecting brides and fills are added to tie it all together and fancy it up. It is partly “handmade”, but “hand-assembled” is more accurate.
Battenberg can be very very plain, such as that coming out of China and Belgium today, or it can be complex, detailed and fanciful. There were many types of Battenberg tapes to choose from - such as these:
Battenberg can be very very plain, such as that coming out of China and Belgium today, or it can be complex, detailed and fanciful. There were many types of Battenberg tapes to choose from - such as these:
Here are photos of the process:
21.) Can you tell me what this lace is?
This is “Normandy Lace”, sometimes called “War Lace”. It is made of bits and pieces, scraps of whatever lace can be found — both machine-made and handmade. I see in your photo, scraps of hand-embroidered linen, handmade needle-run lace on net, and machine-made Valenciennes edging. It is traditional Normandy work, dating from the 1920s to 1940s most likely.
A bit of history: Normandy lace was first made during WWI when Belgium, specifically Normandy, was so devastated by bombing and fire. All the flax fields were burned, so the lace makers, the women who supported their families by making and selling lace, had no thread, no materials to work with. The economy of that country was greatly affected. The women began gleaning scraps of lace and sewing it together in patchwork form in order to have something to sell. This tradition of patchwork lace has carried on since the 1920s. Many of examples of Normandy lace are found on-line.
Another interesting historical note is that President Hoover made a gift from his own personal finances of many thousands of dollars worth of flax thread to Belgium so the lace makers could do their work as a part of the war effort.
Click here for a short interesting article.
A bit of history: Normandy lace was first made during WWI when Belgium, specifically Normandy, was so devastated by bombing and fire. All the flax fields were burned, so the lace makers, the women who supported their families by making and selling lace, had no thread, no materials to work with. The economy of that country was greatly affected. The women began gleaning scraps of lace and sewing it together in patchwork form in order to have something to sell. This tradition of patchwork lace has carried on since the 1920s. Many of examples of Normandy lace are found on-line.
Another interesting historical note is that President Hoover made a gift from his own personal finances of many thousands of dollars worth of flax thread to Belgium so the lace makers could do their work as a part of the war effort.
Click here for a short interesting article.
Compare:
Handmade continuous bobbin lace tapes are flat and smooth where they turn the corners and loop about. There are no gathers or wrinkles, no fold-overs or over-laps. The lace-maker builds in the turns and loops as she goes along so they stay flat.
Purchased tapes are not “bendable” or “loop-able”, they are straight and they have to be coaxed around corners by a series of gathers and puckers. Run your finger along one of the tapes on your cloth, notice where it starts and where it stops. Notice the gathers the lacemaker had to make, the “wrinkles” she devised to make it loop around. Notice the over laps or folds she had to make at the sharp turns. I believe the intention of Renaissance Tape Lace was to create something that looks like handmade Milanese Bobbin lace, but which took much less time to complete. Beautiful stuff, all the same!
Milanese. A similar look, but no gathers, no wrinkles, smoothly hand made.
Milanese 1 Milanese 2
Handmade continuous bobbin lace tapes are flat and smooth where they turn the corners and loop about. There are no gathers or wrinkles, no fold-overs or over-laps. The lace-maker builds in the turns and loops as she goes along so they stay flat.
Purchased tapes are not “bendable” or “loop-able”, they are straight and they have to be coaxed around corners by a series of gathers and puckers. Run your finger along one of the tapes on your cloth, notice where it starts and where it stops. Notice the gathers the lacemaker had to make, the “wrinkles” she devised to make it loop around. Notice the over laps or folds she had to make at the sharp turns. I believe the intention of Renaissance Tape Lace was to create something that looks like handmade Milanese Bobbin lace, but which took much less time to complete. Beautiful stuff, all the same!
Milanese. A similar look, but no gathers, no wrinkles, smoothly hand made.
Milanese 1 Milanese 2